We talked about embroidery placement on tea/dish towels. Now let’s discuss embroidery on clothing. There’s a right and wrong way to do that.
- On T-Shirts the rule of thumb is to measure 3 inches down from the top of a Crew neck shirt to place the TOP of the design. If you have embroidery software, then print out your template, cut around the design and place on shirt where you want the design to be. If the top of design is 3″ down from top of crew neck then mark your center, top and side marking lines and position in your hoop.(For children’s shirts measure 2.5 inches down)
- For round scoop neck shirts it’s best to put shirt on and eye-ball placement that is pleasing to the eye. It depends on how low the scoop comes on the person’s chest. If design ends up too low, then consider a design on the right or left side of the scoop.
- For V neck shirts a design that can be put on one side of the V and down into the middle of shirt always looks pretty. You can also mirror imagine that design and place on opposite side near hip. A pretty open work or light stitching design always looks nice placed that way.
- One more thought. If you don’t have embroidery software you will need to know exact height and width of designs to find placement. You can cut out a piece of white paper the size of the design.
Continue reading “Embroidered Clothing”
Have you ever seen a towel with the design so high up that you can only see half the design when hung on an oven handle? Or looked at a T shirt with the design sitting on someone’s belly button? Well, there is a formula for proper placement of designs on everything.
If you are putting a design on a kitchen tea/dish towel the rule of thumb is the bottom of the design should be 3″ from the bottom of towel if there is no built in border. If there is a border then bottom of design should be about 1″ from top of border. That means you need to know how tall your design is so you can find center placement because designs are all embroidered with marking from the center point. That 3 inch also gives you room to add a pretty fabric band, or ruffle or ribbon trim along the bottom. If you have software then print out a template, cut around the designs and place on towel so you can measure up 3 inches to bottom of design. Then do placement markings with an erase away marker. Continue reading “Embroidery Placement Woes”
I’ve talked a lot about quilting and embroidery on quilting, but I want to take a break and talk about embroidery old and new. Embroidery today is a far cry from what it used to be. In the “olden days” embroidery was done by hand. It was and still is beautiful but took a lot of patience and was time consuming. . If it was machine embroidered on clothing or linens, it was done on a commercial machine and was expensive to buy. You were also limited by whatever designs they sewed on the item. Continue reading “Embroidery Yesterday and Today”
Ever wonder why you sew a perfect quarter inch seam and after putting all your pieces together for a particular block, your finished block still runs a little smaller than it was supposed to be when you square it off? Well, I’m going to explain that phenomenon to you and where I learned the answer to this question….
One of the things that always puzzled me was why would you sew a “scant” quarter inch seam. After all, a quarter inch seam is a quarter inch seam. Why would it be anything else. Right? Then a pattern or instructor throws this “scant” stuff at you. I just always accepted what to do, but wondered why? What is the difference between a quarter inch seam and a scant quarter inch and why would you use one or the other. I’ll tell you. Sometime ago I read or heard someone who answered my question. It’s because when you press your seam to one side the stitching takes up some of the space in the fabric. Sizing is especially crucial when sewing half square triangles and quarter square triangles. I didn’t believe it myself until I tried it. That is why a scant quarter inch seam is sewn a fraction to the right of where that seam should be. Continue reading “Scant Who? Generous What?”
One of my favorite things to do is embroidery. I love the way a quilt looks with embroidery on it. There are several ways to do this. One, you can make enough embroidered blocks to start piecing the blocks like any quilt with sashing in between. You put your narrow borders on and you add a wide border all around. This wide border can have embroidery on it as well, giving a beautiful finished look. That’s what I did with my personal bed quilt. I used the Judy Nowecki embroidery design disk, Floral Elegance. I loved this quilt when it was finished and I still do now. Continue reading “Embroidery & Sewing & Quilting, Oh My!”
Quilts have been around for a long time but they started out as a necessity. They were made of old clothing, ragged blankets, or whatever fabric the pioneers could find. I guess you could call it, early recycling. If they were wealthy enough or lucky enough to get hold of some nice fabric then those quilts turned into beautiful artistic treasures that were handed down through the generations. All the piecing and quilting was done by hand and could take years to make depending on the designs. These quilts were made of many different blocks or one or two of the same blocks
The “blocks” as they are called all had specific names and for the most part those names have survived and not changed much since their inception. There are always new ones that creative quilters come up with but your traditional blocks are still the same, like the Churn Dash, Pinwheel, Rail Fence, 9 Patch, the various stars and my favorite, the Log Cabin.
Quilts were made for different occasions. Like for a wedding, for a new baby, or just because! But during the Civil War, they were made to help direct escaping black slaves to the next safe house on the Underground Railroad. These quilts were made of one pattern. A pattern that would tell the slaves if that house would give refuge, or food, or a warning that slave catchers were nearby. I’ve heard some people say this isn’t true. Knowing quilters, I would like to believe these stories are true. Continue reading “The History of Quilts”
If you are a machine embroiderer, particularly if you are new, then you know the horror of doing this beautiful embroidery on a towel or anything else, only to have it come out of the hoop with all those puckers around the design.
Puckers are caused by several situations. Most times it is inadequate or wrong stabilizer, not enough stabilizer, or design is too heavy for the fabric. There is one thing to remember with any fabric or design. If it is a woven stable fabric that doesn’t stretch then you can use a tear away stabilizer. If the fabric has any stretch in it, then you must use a cutaway stabilizer to keep the fabric stable. On T-shirts use Floriani No Show mesh because it has no stretch. If you are doing sweatshirts then use a regular cutaway. Continue reading “To Pucker Or Not To Pucker”