Sorry I haven’t posted a new blog lately, but I’ve been sooo busy. I also went away for the holidays to Pennsylvania during the time that they had 1 degree temps and -10 wind chill. Brrrr!!!
Back to sunny Florida. I taught a class this week that my students asked “why so many different needles”? So, I decided to re run my needle blog as a refresher of, why so many different needles.
I have several new blogs in the works and will get them ready for you as soon as I can. Now, read on and thank you for your support and good comments.
No, we are not going to look for needles in a haystack, but we do need to dig out all those needles in our sewing box and organize them. I teach an Embroidery 101 workshop, which covers the use of stabilizer, threads and needles. It still surprises me when my students ask me the difference in needles. I’m going to try to simplify this mystery and give you a place to go back to when you need to choose a needle for a certain sewing, quilting or embroidery project.I have worked with most of these needle types and when you use the correct needle, your project will always look the best.
You want to choose needle size according to thickness of your thread and needle type according to your fabric application. Continue reading “New! Needle in A Haystack (sewing basket)”
My wish for all of you is a joyous, healthy, happy holiday season and a wonderful 2018.
This has been a hectic year for me, but hopefully next year will afford me more time to blog for you.
Thank you for following my blog. Please pass my link on to your sewing, quilting and embroidery friends. Sewers are the nicest people on earth. They are generous of heart and true artists.
God bless, everyone.
We talked about embroidery placement on tea/dish towels. Now let’s discuss embroidery on clothing. There’s a right and wrong way to do that.
- On T-Shirts the rule of thumb is to measure 3 inches down from the top of a Crew neck shirt to place the TOP of the design. If you have embroidery software, then print out your template, cut around the design and place on shirt where you want the design to be. If the top of design is 3″ down from top of crew neck then mark your center, top and side marking lines and position in your hoop.(For children’s shirts measure 2.5 inches down)
- For round scoop neck shirts it’s best to put shirt on and eye-ball placement that is pleasing to the eye. It depends on how low the scoop comes on the person’s chest. If design ends up too low, then consider a design on the right or left side of the scoop.
- For V neck shirts a design that can be put on one side of the V and down into the middle of shirt always looks pretty. You can also mirror imagine that design and place on opposite side near hip. A pretty open work or light stitching design always looks nice placed that way.
- One more thought. If you don’t have embroidery software you will need to know exact height and width of designs to find placement. You can cut out a piece of white paper the size of the design.
Continue reading “Embroidered Clothing”
Have you ever seen a towel with the design so high up that you can only see half the design when hung on an oven handle? Or looked at a T shirt with the design sitting on someone’s belly button? Well, there is a formula for proper placement of designs on everything.
If you are putting a design on a kitchen tea/dish towel the rule of thumb is the bottom of the design should be 3″ from the bottom of towel if there is no built in border. If there is a border then bottom of design should be about 1″ from top of border. That means you need to know how tall your design is so you can find center placement because designs are all embroidered with marking from the center point. That 3 inch also gives you room to add a pretty fabric band, or ruffle or ribbon trim along the bottom. If you have software then print out a template, cut around the designs and place on towel so you can measure up 3 inches to bottom of design. Then do placement markings with an erase away marker. Continue reading “Embroidery Placement Woes”
Ever wonder why you sew a perfect quarter inch seam and after putting all your pieces together for a particular block, your finished block still runs a little smaller than it was supposed to be when you square it off? Well, I’m going to explain that phenomenon to you and where I learned the answer to this question….
One of the things that always puzzled me was why would you sew a “scant” quarter inch seam. After all, a quarter inch seam is a quarter inch seam. Why would it be anything else. Right? Then a pattern or instructor throws this “scant” stuff at you. I just always accepted what to do, but wondered why? What is the difference between a quarter inch seam and a scant quarter inch and why would you use one or the other. I’ll tell you. Sometime ago I read or heard someone who answered my question. It’s because when you press your seam to one side the stitching takes up some of the space in the fabric. Sizing is especially crucial when sewing half square triangles and quarter square triangles. I didn’t believe it myself until I tried it. That is why a scant quarter inch seam is sewn a fraction to the right of where that seam should be. Continue reading “Scant Who? Generous What?”
One of my favorite things to do is embroidery. I love the way a quilt looks with embroidery on it. There are several ways to do this. One, you can make enough embroidered blocks to start piecing the blocks like any quilt with sashing in between. You put your narrow borders on and you add a wide border all around. This wide border can have embroidery on it as well, giving a beautiful finished look. That’s what I did with my personal bed quilt. I used the Judy Nowecki embroidery design disk, Floral Elegance. I loved this quilt when it was finished and I still do now. Continue reading “Embroidery & Sewing & Quilting, Oh My!”
If you are a machine embroiderer, particularly if you are new, then you know the horror of doing this beautiful embroidery on a towel or anything else, only to have it come out of the hoop with all those puckers around the design.
Puckers are caused by several situations. Most times it is inadequate or wrong stabilizer, not enough stabilizer, or design is too heavy for the fabric. There is one thing to remember with any fabric or design. If it is a woven stable fabric that doesn’t stretch then you can use a tear away stabilizer. If the fabric has any stretch in it, then you must use a cutaway stabilizer to keep the fabric stable. On T-shirts use Floriani No Show mesh because it has no stretch. If you are doing sweatshirts then use a regular cutaway. Continue reading “To Pucker Or Not To Pucker”